Dress

Wool dress, c. 1944. This wartime 'Jersey de Luxe' dress was made from utility cloth in accordance with the Civilian Clothing (Restriction) Orders, which were introduced by the British government in 1942. These austerity regulations governed the construction, materials and trimming of nearly every item of clothing whether made in a couture house or factory. Their purpose was to keep prices down, make the most appropriate and economical use of scarce raw materials and ensure a fair distribution of clothing to all. The government also encouraged manufacturers to address design.

The herringbone weave wool dress is made with the maximum number of six seams in the skirt. It has a self-fabric belt to save leather and fastens with hooks and eyes not a zip. What appears to be a tuck of fabric on the bodice is in fact a lap seam or constructional join. Tucks were not allowed. The dress cost £3.15s and eleven coupons. The retail price of the dress was 75 shillings and 2 coupons. Otto Marcus, a clothing manufacturer in Wells Street, donated the dress to the London Museum in 1945.

Messrs W and O Marcus was founded by Jewish brothers Walter and Otto Marcus, originally from Westphalia in Germany, who fled from the Nazis. They founded their fashion house in London in the 1930s, first at St Margaret's House in Wells Street, later at Marcol House in Regent Street. The company was part of the Model House Group and had registered trade names: Marcus (couture), Marcusa (ready to wear) and Jersey de Luxe