Shirt, shirt (ensemble)

In 1981 Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren launched their first mainstream fashion collection. Called 'Pirates', the clothes explored historical styles and evoked the golden age of piracy in unisex garments. People who saw the show recall that 'it was absolutely magical. There was a glitter of gold, that whole swash-buckling, heroic feeling.'

This shirt in striped cotton is part of an ensemble from the collection worn by clothes designer Dane Goulding. He commented: 'I grew up being really frustrated with the aesthetic limitations imposed on me just because I was male. I really never understood why my sister got all the interesting stuff...I really owe a huge debt to Miss/Mrs Westwood and I think her clothes are way more than just clothes, they taught you how to work a very insecure system...I honestly never bought her clothes to look cute, I always felt as though I was commenting on a world I was really unhappy with.'