Teddy boys: Britain’s first youth subculture

Teddy boys could be identified by their long tailored jackets, slicked quiff hairstyles and narrow “drainpipe” trousers. Bootlace ties were common, as were crepe-soled “beetle-crusher” or “brothel-creeper” shoes.

Teddy boys were named for their long jackets with velvet collars, which harked back to a style worn during the reign of King Edward VII (1901–1910). Ted is a common shortening of Edward. This painting shows Edwardian entertainers, famous 50 years before Teddy boys appeared.

After the Second World War ended in 1945, Savile Row tailors made Edwardian-style suits for wealthy clients. These were probably adopted by working-class Teds as an evolution of broad-shouldered American zoot suits, often worn by “spivs” – British criminals who sold black-market goods during and after the war.

Young women and girls were also part of the subculture, with their style taking cues from the men and boys. Suit jackets were paired with turned-up jeans, slim trousers or narrow pencil skirts, worn with flat shoes. Some Teddy girls wore slim ribbon ties and they might even have a quiff.

A 1953 murder by a Teddy gang brought them widespread attention. In 1955, rowdy scenes at screenings of a film featuring Bill Haley’s song Rock around the Clock were described as “riots” by the press. Like all youth movements, this one had a rebellious spirit – but most Teds weren’t criminals. Similar moral panic stalked mods and rockers, punks, hippies and skinheads.

Although the original Teddy boys were replaced by other subcultures in the early 1960s, their style has seen several revivals. Their style is often exaggerated – suit jackets and sideburns are extra long, and the soles of the brothel-creeper shoes extra thick.